Yes, I realize it is the beginning of summer and I am sewing and reviewing a jacket pattern. That might seem crazy to some, but I am one of those people who wear a jacket/sweatshirt year round. Especially in the summer while indoors as air conditioning makes me even colder than usual. So, sewing up the Junko Jacket from the DIBY club is not all the strange for my summer sewing. And, made up in one of the coziest fabrics I have even worn makes it that much better! I will be calling this my summer sherpa! No matter what season it may be where you are, I hope you enjoy this review of the Junko Jacket from DIBY club.
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DIBY CLUB Junko Jacket Pattern Review
PATTERN DESCRIPTION:
From the DIBY CLUB website: “The Junko Women’s Jacket Sewing Pattern is the perfect piece to add for cool summer nights or chill spring mornings. This fashionable and versatile pattern features a dolman sleeve for a comfortably slouchy fit. The funnel neck and hooded options add both style and warmth. Plus, a variety of pocket options will keep all of your essentials close by without skipping a beat.”
PATTERN SIZING:
Available in sizes 00-36 (DIBY includes size chart measurements in the pattern photos) I made the 4 bodice graded to a size 6 hip. The pattern is fitted in the hip but loose through the waist. I made sure to grade so the hips would not be too tight and I am happy with the fit. The DIBY patterns always go into detail about fit, intended fit and how to grade for each pattern. Make sure you follow their instructions to see if your pattern will require grading or not for best fit. They also provide very detailed directions for pattern adjustments, including FBA instructions.
Supplies Needed:
Knit Fabric: I chose this gorgeously soft and warm Sherpa French Terry from Mily Mae Fabrics. Possibly my favorite fabric ever for cozy clothing. I have also made this top in the ivory colorway. And I currently have navy blue headed to my door that I can’t wait to make into joggers.
Separating Zipper- due to the pandemic I had to order mine online from Zipper Stop. They have a great selection on Etsy.
Grommets – I use a kit, similiar to this one
Interfacing- I prefer SF101 on my projects. You need to make sure you interface the zipper area on this pattern, don’t skip this step.
Drawstring – I made my own using my fabric but I also have this set from Amazon if you need pre-made in white and black.
Hem Tape– this makes attaching the band so much easier- I also used it for my hood facing.
DID IT LOOK LIKE THE PHOTO/DRAWING ON THE PATTERN ENVELOPE ONCE YOU WERE DONE SEWING?
Yes, I chose to make the hooded version with the banded bottom. The pocket style is the kangaroo pocket. I did not make any changes to the pattern in terms of hacks, etc. I did add a strip of fabric, sewn in as you would bias trim, to help hide seams on the hood and zipper area. I feel like the areas need to look a little cleaner. Maybe it was just me, but pay attention to these areas as you are constructing to make sure your finishing looks good. I posted some tips at the end of this review for using hem tape to help.
WERE THE INSTRUCTIONS EASY TO FOLLOW?
Yes, the instructions in DIBY patterns are very detailed with clear illustrations. I did have to refer back to the them regularly to make sure I was assembling the hood, facing, zipper in the right order. I would prefer to finish the banded area differently by folding the fabric right sides together, with the zipper sandwiched in the middle, sew, then turn the band right sides out for a clean finish on the band at the zipper area.
WHAT DID YOU PARTICULARLY LIKE OR DISLIKE ABOUT THE PATTERN?
I like the slouchy fit but I normally don’t love dolman sleeves. I think it works well for this style. I like the different options for pockets, necklines, and hems allowing you to create a jacket for your personal preference without buying multiple patterns. I don’t love the way the inside looked at the facing and zipper area that would be seen when left unzipped. I added a trim to make this look better but would have loved if finishing techniques would have been included in the pattern. I love the big hood that would be perfect with the funnel neck for warmth and wind protection.
WOULD YOU SEW IT AGAIN? WOULD YOU RECOMMEND IT TO OTHERS?
I think I would make this again in a sherpa backed jersey that I have in my stash. You can see how I used it here on this sweatshirt. I love this fabric and it is super warm, but my sweatshirt I made prior is more fitted and I would love to have something looser like the Junko in the fabric. Plus, with the jacket being unlined, I think using a backed fabric, like the sherpa, would look great as a jacket and having the sherpa side on the interior. The jacket isn’t overly time consuming for all of the features (pocket, zipper, hood) so I think it would be a great one to make again. I would recommend this for intermediate sewists and above, possibly adventurous beginners. There are some steps that could be tricky, like the zipper install and the extra options of zippered pockets and grommets, for a beginner but the pattern is quite clear and walks you through the steps.
CONCLUSION:
If you are looking for a casual, oversized sweatshirt/jacket this is a great little pattern. You can use a variety of options to customize your make, including adding extra pockets, drawstrings, grommets, etc. I will be perfectly cozy snuggling up this summer (and fall, winter, and spring…LOL) in this jacket.
When I was constructing this jacket I used hem tape to help make the hood facing and hem band construction easier. When attaching the hood facing I added a layer of the fusible tape to help hold the facing in place before stitching. I clipped into the tape to help move around the curves. You can see that after sewing from the right side as I prefer to do for any visible top stitching, my inside looked bad. I decided to add my own “bias tape” of sherpa fabric and sew it on to help cover the hood facing and zipper seams that were not that cute. I also added the fusible tape to the underside of the band and pressed it into place at the hem. This step is super helpful when working with bands that like to shift and need to be lined up to look clean when sewn. (sorry I did not take pictures of the hem application).
Until next time,
Happy Sewing
About 18 years ago I decided to teach myself how to sew. Long before blogs and resources available today which meant it was often disastrous. But I never gave up because I loved it so much. Today I love helping others get started on their own sewing journey. You can read more about my family and I