Opening my Pinterest board, this beauty of a top kept begging to be made.
From the eye-catching puff sleeve to the structured lines of the fitted turtleneck and bodice, it needed to be in my closet. Finally my chance to sew this look arrived.
Carefully laying out my fabric, I slowly cut out each piece using my brand new projector. Being new to using one, I didn’t want to mess up. Wait, did I just cut a neck facing? Hold on, this is supposed to be my gorgeous inspiration turtleneck! Oh, there’s that neck piece, phew! I’ll just cut it out too…should be no problem, right?
Turns out it was actually a very big problem. And you probably figured out by now that I am not wearing a turtleneck. So what happened that could have so easily been avoided? Simple: I didn’t read the instructions first. Here’s is why you need to on this pattern.
But I Sew Knit Tops All the Time…Why bother with pre-reading instructions?
Many of us who are familiar with sewing patterns and knit garments may feel quite comfortable cutting out and sewing a pattern with little help from the instructions. And every once awhile, this works out all alright. If I am using a designer that I know well, often times seam allowance and general construction is the same.
But this was my first time using a Schultz Apparel Pattern. And skimming the instruction booklet here caused me a very silly error I could have avoided. One that could have given me that gorgeous turtleneck I was seeking.
Had I been more thorough I would have seen the instructions telling me to add seam allowance at the neck to allow for the turtleneck option. But it was too late! I already cut the bodice and I couldn’t add seam allowance back in at this point. Maybe I could take a smaller seam and just doing it anyway, but instead I made the top with the neck facing option and guess what? I actually love this look just as much as the turtleneck. But lesson learned, I will always pre-read instructions now…I would especially recommend it for this pattern for many reasons.
The instructions get a little jumpy on this one. I am more familiar with other companies. Other instruction booklets have seemed more clear and ordered in user friendly format. I found these to not be quite as clear. While nothing will give you cause for panic, it would be a good idea to have a quick read through to make sure you are following along with the little blurbs sprinkled throughout…you know, things like add seam allowance for the turtleneck option 🙂
Can I Make This as a Beginner?
Yes, I think this top is able to be sewn by a beginner. If you haven’t worked with knits much before there are no difficult steps that will throw you in this pattern. I like to sew my seams in this order for quick and simple construction:
- Center Back Seam and Shoulder Seams (more details on stitch options below)
- Neckband
- Sleeves (make sure you use a regular sewing machine here – see details under sleeves paragraph below) and press casing while flat
- underarm and side seams on one side
- serge bottom, memory press hem while flat
- unfold memory press, sew other underarm and side seams
- Finish Sleeve Casing and Hem – details on favorite stitch to use on finishes under stitch options below
How Do I get my Sleeves to Look Puffy?
The sleeves make this pattern- it is all about the dramatic puff and fullness. Follow these tips to get great puff sleeves.
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How to Sew Great Puff Sleeves
- Mark Your Pleat Lines – Carefully mark the pleat lines from the pattern. Use a chalk pen or these pens that erase with heat (caution…only use this on the wrong side of the fabric.)
- Fold Pleats- Use the instructions to make sure pleats are folded in the correct direction and use clips to secure.
- Use your SEWING MACHINE – not a serger. Use your sewing machine to baste the pleats in place. Your serger will shift and flatten things easily.
- Sew the Sleeves – Use your sewing machine here. This will increase your seam allowance accuracy, it is easier to sew in pleats and create great puff sleeves. If you are more experienced, you could do this step with a serger, being extra careful over those pleats.
- Optional- Finish Edges – If you want all raw edges serged, go back over your armsyce seam allowance now to finish. However, knit fabrics do not fray so you can choose to leave them unfinished.
What Stitches Can I Use on Knit?
If you use a serger, make sure you run your test swatch on your fabric first. When sewing this thicker waffle knit, I increased my differential to help prevent wavy seams. You can see a whole video I put together to help you understand your serger HERE.
If you are using a sewing machine look for these stitches on your model:
- Lightening Bolt Stitch – This is a very secure stitch that I use on my seams (shoulders, center back, sleeves, etc when not using a serger) It maintains stretch but doesn’t pull open and expose stitches like a zig-zag stitch can do. Please be aware this is a very challenging seam to remove…should you have to seam rip!
- Hands -down my favorite stitch for finishing (neck facing and hems) is the Honeycomb Stitch. Both my vintage and new Pfaff Machines have this stitch. It’s decorative, stretchy, and easy to catch the hem edge without worrying about staying right on the edge. Since it is a bit wider, it is a tad more forgiving and easy for beginners. Make sure you are using a fusible tape to prevent wavy, pulled hems. This stuff is my secret weapon in knit sewing!
Frequently Asked Questions
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This is a very soft brushed waffle knit from Mily Mae Fabrics. While this particular color is sold out, there are many other waffle knits available at the site: Mily Mae Waffle Knit
No, this waffle is a textured knit but not too thick for a top. I increased my differential setting on my serger to help prevent wavy seams and used my sewing machine for all hem finishes. You can read more about the stitches I used and Serger Tips above.
I absolutely love using a hem tape made for knits. This stuff is the best Hem Tape I have found for knits and works great to stabilize your hems and prevent those wavy finishes.
I used a 1/2 inch elastic in my sleeve. I prefer to buy the frequently used sizes in bulk. It saves money. I like to buy them on a roll like this one. Elastic
A projector is a fabulous time and paper saver for those of us who prefer PDF patterns. I will be writing a detailed post soon about the projector and how it all works. I am currently using and loving this model.
High – Waisted Jeans – I just got these and love them…wash them well- the fabric bleeds!
I currently have the very affordable option, Brother 1034D, and it has been working like a champ for over 10 years now. This model is the current compatible option.
I use a Pfaff 630 Quilt Ambition. It is a dream to work with, but I used vintage machines for my first 18+ years of sewing and they are also fabulous. You don’t need all the bells and whistles when you first begin but you will want a machine that will last and provide you the stitches you need to sew knits and wovens. Here is a great, budget friendly model that I would recommend. If you have a little more money to spend, I always vote Pfaff. They have passport entry level machines starting around $500.
Until Next Time,
Happy Sewing
About 18 years ago I decided to teach myself how to sew. Long before blogs and resources available today which meant it was often disastrous. But I never gave up because I loved it so much. Today I love helping others get started on their own sewing journey. You can read more about my family and I