How to Easily Add Cuffs to a Sleeve

Trying to replicate your favorite sleeve from retail wear? Need sleeves to extend longer on your arms? Or just want to add a new skill to your sewing? This tutorial will show you how you can add sleeve cuffs to your knit patterns easily.

I include instructions for using sleeve patterns that are cut on the fold and sleeves that are cut flat. You can jump to any of the following:

How to Create a Sleeve and Cuff for a Pattern Cut on the Fold

How to Create a Sleeve and Cuff for a Flat Sleeve Pattern Piece

How to Insert and Sew a Cuff to a Sleeve

What is a sleeve cuff?

A knit sleeve cuff is a separate piece of fabric, double folded to provide a finished end to a sleeve. It can be used in place of a traditional folded hem to create a sleeve finish that is more fitted to the wrist. Cuffs can be altered in height and width to create a custom fit.

The 2-step Process to Create a Sleeve Cuff

You need to measure and make adjustments to both the current sleeve pattern piece and calculate your cuff. Let’s start with the sleeve piece.

Step 1: Create the New Sleeve Pattern Piece (Patterns cut on the fold)

• Take your sleeve pattern piece and fold up the hem allowance.
• Determine where you would like your cuff to be added and mark that on your pattern. (In these pictures, I am creating a 2-inch cuff). I draw a line at 2 inches from the bottom of the sleeve **Note- you need to fold up your hem allowance and use that folded line as the bottom of your sleeve for proper measuring.**

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• Add seam allowance by drawing a line 1/4 inch (or your preferred seam allowance) below your drawn line.
• This bottom line is your new cut line for your sleeve length. Fold the pattern back on itself at this line and you have your new sleeve pattern piece. Now cut out your sleeve pieces using this pattern piece.

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Step 2: Create Your Cuff Pattern Piece (For Sleeve Patterns Cut on the Fold)

Now you need to do a little math to create your cuff piece.

• Measure your sleeve pattern piece from the fold edge to the underarm seam. I like to measure at the bottom of the sleeve that would naturally be near the wrist.
• Take this measurement and multiply it by 2. Then take that number and multiply it by .9 = the width you will cut your cuff piece.
• My sleeve piece measured 3.75 (I rounded down) so I used this in my equation: 3.75 x 2 = 7.5 Then 7.5 x .90= 6.75 inches. My new cuff piece will be 6.75 inches wide.

• Next, take the desired height of your cuff (I am using 2 inches) and add your seam allowance. ( I am using 1/4 inch seam allowance) So I now have 2 1/4 inches as my length. We will be folding this piece in half, so double this measurement for your cuff piece length. Mine would be 4.5 inches long.
• Take your width and length and cut two cuff pieces. Make sure the fabric stretch is going with your width measurement. This is the way the fabric will be stretching around your wrist and needs to have the greatest stretch.

Click to Read How to Sew the Cuff

Step 1: Create the New Sleeve Pattern Piece (Flat Sleeve Pattern Pieces)

• Fold up the hem allowance on your pattern piece. I like to use a ruler to help me fold a straight line.
• Measure from the bottom (making sure the hem has been folded up prior) and mark a line where you want your cuff to start. I am wanting to create a 2 inch cuff, so I am drawing my line 2 inches up from the bottom. **Note – you need to fold up hem allowance first prior to marking cuff line- it is not pictured here but is above in the instructions*
• Next, add your seam allowance. I am using a 1/4 inch seam allowance so I will draw a line 1/4 inch below the cuff line I just drew. This bottom line is my new cut line for my sleeve pattern.

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• Fold back your pattern onto itself at your new cut line. Use this as your new sleeve pattern piece and cut out your sleeve pieces (sleeve cut on the fold pictured).

Step 2: Create Your Cuff Pattern Piece (For Flat Sleeve Patterns)

Now you need to do a little math to create your cuff piece.

• Measure your sleeve piece from one side to the other at the bottom edge, above the hem allowance. Take this measurement and multiply it by .9 That is your cuff width measurement. I rounded down to 7.5 x .9= 6.75 inches

• Then take your desired cuff length and add your seam allowance. Mine is 2 inches + 1/4 inch seam allowance = 2 1/4 inches- now double this measurement for your cuff length. Mine would be 4.5 inches.
• Cut two pieces using your new cuff measurements. My pieces would be 6.75 inches wide (with the most stretch) by 4.5 inches tall.

You have now created your new sleeve pattern piece and measured to create your cuff pieces. Cut out two sleeve pieces using your new piece and two cuffs using your measurements. Make sure your cuff fabric has enough stretch and recovery. One great option is ribbed knit if your main fabric will not work for cuffs. Your ribbed knit should have 50% or more stretch and great recovery for optimal cuffs.

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• Take your cuff piece and fold it in half width wise, right sides together. Sew down the long edge using your seam allowance from the sleeve pattern.

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• Take the cuff piece and fold it in half on itself, right sides out.
• Place the cuff with the folded edge on top and raw edges at the bottom.
• I like to take a pin and mark the center front of the cuff by pinning directly across from the seam. This helps with evenly pinning it to the sleeve.

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• Sew your sleeve underarm using the sleeve pattern’s seam allowance.
• With the sleeve inside out, place your folded cuff into the sleeve. Match the cuff seam to the underarm seam and pin. Pin around the entire cuff. You should have 3 layers of fabric to pin together.

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• Sew cuff to sleeve using a stretch stitch. The cuff should be slightly smaller than the sleeve opening. Make sure you ONLY stretch the cuff while sewing. Use the seam allowance you added during your cuff/sleeve pattern measuring.
• After sewing, pull the cuff out and press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.
• Turn right side out and admire your new cuffs! You can topstitch if you want using a stretch stitch but I find it only adds bulk and tend not to add it.

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Now that you know how to easily add cuffs to your sleeves you can create looks perfect for you.

The turtleneck featured in this tutorial is a fabulous free pattern. Sewing up the Monroe Turtleneck was a breeze and you can read all about it.

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