How to Add an Invisible Horsehair Braid Hem

While planning my latest make the thought of how to hem the dress was giving me pause. The pattern calls for a horsehair braid to be used, and while I was comfortable with the process, I knew I did not want any visible stitching lines. This sent me into research and planning mode. In the end, I decided to create my dress using a couple different methods than I had used before. The final result is a nice clean hem, with the fullness of horsehair braid. Here is a look at how to add an invisible horsehair braid hem to your next project.

Supplies Needed

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Horsehair Hem – this pattern calls for a 3-inch braid. You can purchase this product in varying widths and lengths, but I ordered a larger quantity through Amazon and was happy with the product.

Satin Charmuese or other silky fabric – mine is from Joann. https://www.joann.com/martini-olive-solid-charmeuse-silky-fabric/18260554.html

Lining Fabric

Iron

Video Tutorial and Pattern Review

Here you can view the tutorial for the invisible horsehair hem and hear a general pattern review for the Vintage Little Lady Victoria Dress.

Written Instructions for Hem:

1. Underline the skirt pieces in lining fabric (Baste wrong sides together all the way around skirt pieces) then treat as one fabric for remaining steps
2. Sew the side seams of the skirt.
3. Lay horsehair braid on right side of the main fabric at hem, stitch all the way around using a 1/4 inch seam. Encase the raw edges of the horsehair braid in bias tape to prevent ruining your fabric on the sharp edges.
4. Flip the horsehair braid up towards lining. Press with light steam.
5. Flip the hem up again to fully encase the horsehair and press. I use clips to hold along the bottom edge of the skirt. Do not use pins as it will leave holes in the fabric.
6. Catchstitch the hem by catching only the UNDERLINING fabric, making sure you do not put the needle through the main fabric and then catching the top edge of the main fabric/horsehair braid. Work your way around your skirt until the entire hem is completed.

Pattern Details

You can find my pattern modifications, supplies, and general thoughts about this dress on the You Tube Video. The pattern can be found at Vintage Little Lady- the Victoria Dress. As of the time of this blog post, the pattern is only available in tween and child sizing.

Thanks for checking out this tutorial and pattern review,

Until Next Time – Happy Sewing