These 8 Tricks Will Help You Sew Beautiful Silk Projects

Have you ever had a fabric so precious you were scared to cut into it? Nervous that one mis-step will ruin the entire project and your time and pricey fabric will be wasted? Here are 8 tricks that you need to learn to help you master sewing with silk.

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1. Do I need to pre-treat my silk fabric?

You have a couple of options here. If you will be dry cleaning your finished garment only, then you do not need to prewash your fabric (or have it dry-cleaned first.) Of course, if you prefer to treat it prior to working with it you certainly can and most silks will shrink when washed, so it is recommended. Most garment silks can withstand washing. You can cut a small square of your fabric and launder it on the gentle/delicate cycle on your machine to test. But it is best to hand wash your silk fabric. Lay it in a towel to remove excess water and then hang dry until damp. While slightly damp iron your silk on a low setting with a dry iron delicately. The beautiful silk fabric I am using was gifted to me by Minerva: found here

2. Can I iron silk?

Ironing and pressing are essential steps in sewing. A well-pressed garment can make the difference between a homemade-looking item and a high-end finish. I use a dry iron with the silk setting, pressing very delicately. You want to use a pressing cloth, ideally silk organza, so you can see through it while pressing and still protect your fabric. I did use steam very carefully a few times to work on some wrinkles, but it should be done with caution.

3. Do I need to alter my pattern pieces for sewing silk?

When sewing silk garments, it is best to never cut your silk fabric on the fold. Doing so can cause shifting and uneven cutting. Instead, trace off any pattern pieces that are cut on the fold with the mirror image so that you can use one flat pattern piece. I prefer using medical exam table paper because it is inexpensive, see-through for tracing, yet sturdy enough to not rip easily when using the crepe paper. I buy mine in bulk from Amazon so it lasts a very long time and it can be used for tip #8 so it serves a dual purpose.

4. What needle do I need to use in my sewing machine?

I like using a microtex needle for sewing silk. It is a very sharp needle and made for sewing silks when purchased in the 60/8 size.

5. What thread do I use to sew silk?

Using your regular all-purpose thread is not advised when working with silk. There are two great options for working with silk fabric – either 100% silk thread like I used in this project or rayon machine embroidery thread. I found my silk thread at my local Jo-Ann Fabric store.

6. What machine stitch do I use when sewing silk?

There are a couple options when sewing silks. You can use a short, straight stitch, such as 2.0 Length on your machine. Or, you can sew a stitch with some slight stretch to it. Doing so will allow your fabric to move a bit better and hopefully prevent some of the puckering/pulling you can often see in silk sewing. Set your machine on a zig-zag stitch with a 0.5 Width and 2.5-3 Length.

7. How do I finish silk seams?

Again, there are many options here depending on what you are making. French seams are a lovely option but I found the simple option of pinking the seams were the way to go with my lined dress. I recommend using a Olfa. It is quick and easy and makes pinking the seams a breeze. For hems on lightweight silk, like my dress, baby hems make it simple to get a clean hemline. Here is an easy-to-read tutorial on baby hems.

8. Why do you use tissue paper for sewing silk?

This tip may be the last, but probably one of the most important steps to sewing silks well. Prior to cutting your silk fabric out, put a piece of tissue paper (or the same medical exam table paper from tip #3) under and on top of your silk. Once the fabric is sandwiched in between two sheets of tissue, pin your pattern piece to the fabric, staying within the seam allowance. Use pins made for silk to avoid snags and runs. After cutting out your pattern pieces KEEP the tissue paper attached to the fabric. You only want to unpin carefully to remove the pattern piece, then repin the tissue and fabric together. Keep the tissue attached as long as possible during construction. Pin your front and back pieces together, with tissue attached. Once you have sewn your seam you want to delicately remove the tissue paper from the seams. Then press and pink your seam allowances. By using tissue paper for cutting and construction you stabilize your seams and prevent your fabric from slipping while sewing. This extra step may seem like a lot of work, but it only adds a few minutes and is well worth the end result.

Using these 8 tricks will help you have the confidence to sew your beautiful silk fabric without worry.

Helpful Tools For Working with Silk

So now that you know some helpful tricks, cut into those luxury fabrics with confidence and enjoy your beautiful silk fabric.

Until Next Time,